The last post ended with us needing to plan our next stop. We were scheduled to leave Kyoto the next day and hadn’t finalized our plan. Before I get to the plan, I have to step back to the Not Suspicious Bar in Asakusa, Tokyo.
When we were there, we took seats at the bar. There was an empty seat to the right of me, then a group of four Australians occupying the rest of that end of the bar. A young man took the seat between me and the Australians. It turned out he was an American from Florida and taking an impromptu 3-week holiday in Japan. I assumed he was military as he said he had some time off and jumped on a flight to Tokyo.
We made some small talk and he also engaged in conversation with the Australians. One of the Australian women was very talkative and gave the guy next to me advice about where to go and what to see. Donna overheard much of the conversation as I talked to the bartender and didn’t pay as much attention.
After the Australians left, the bartender told us the talkative women had been coming to Japan for a few months per year for about 16 years! She was an avid skier and had a home near Kanazawa. Donna made note of this.
While we were planning our next move, I had an ulterior motive. I wanted to head northwest to the west coast of Japan. I wanted to make a visit to the Takefu Knife Village outside of Echizen and then go to Sanjo near Niigata – another knife making area.
Donna checked on hotels in Echizen and didn’t find much that we would want to stay in. Echizen is fairly small and mostly agricultural although there are electronics and apparel factories. Donna brought up Kanazawa and recalled the Australian woman being very enthusiastic about telling the guy at the bar all of the things to see there and how it wasn’t as crowded and also slower paced than Tokyo or Kyoto.
The Shinkansen train to Kanazawa stopped at Tsurugu Station where we could transfer to an Express train to Echizen. The thought was we could make Takefu Knife Village a midday stop, then continue on to Kanazawa. I checked train schedules and we found a way to make it happen, by continuing on Shinkansen from Echizen to Kanazawa. We decided to take some time to get to know Kanazawa and bag the excursion to Niigata. It was too much to try and Kanazawa seemed like the right thing to do. We would stay there until we went back to Tokyo.
The story behind Takefu Knife VIllage could fill several posts, but in a nutshell it comes down to this. In the 1980s, the Japanese knife industry was facing a crisis. Sales were down and artisans crafting the knives were aging. Fewer young people were interested in apprenticing in the small villages and shops to learn to become master bladesmiths.
A group of Echizen knife makers got together, informally at first, and discussed solutions for the future of their craft. Eventually, 10 makers formed a cooperative and created the Echizen Knife Village. This is a shared workplace offering clean, fully equipped facilities with master bladesmiths willing to take on young apprentices and teach them the craft. This worked – it attracted a number of young people interested in creating traditional Japanese knives. Many of them came up in the 1990s and 2000s and have established their own businesses and worldwide clientele. I have a knife from a Takefu graduate, Yoshimi Kato. I bought it several years ago and today his knives are commanding premium prices.
Donna booked a hotel in Kanazawa, I bought train tickets and we were all set. This is how I like to vacation – a set beginning and end point with spontaneous destinations in between. I like the flexibility rather than a rigid schedule and I like hearing first hand from people with local knowledge about places I might not have otherwise considered.
On Thursday, October 3rd, we made the trek to Kanazawa Station. We had a better idea of the layout, but it was just as large and confusing as the last time we were here. I found the Shinkansen JR ticket office. Although I had bought my tickets and reserved seats online, I still had to check in and get paper tickets to get us through to the correct platform.
We gave ourselves plenty of time and shopped for Bento box lunches to take on the train.
The platform was nearly empty when we arrived. I had a little confusion over where we should wait to board the train. A monk I assumed was a Buddist showed me where we should wait to get on our car.
The platform filled with people just before the train arrived and the monk had steered us right – our car stopped right in front of us.
When we reached Echizen Station, we found a modern and very clean facility – of course. I don’t know what I really expected, but I figured Echizen was more of an outpost. I guess it was – we were the only people to depart the train there. We deposited our luggage in lockers. Like just about everything else in Japan, it’s automated. You choose a locker, put your stuff inside, then pay through a machine. The machine spits out a ticket with a bar code that will open the locker when you use the code reader on your return.
It was raining lightly as we left the station to find a taxi to Takefu. It wasn’t hard to find, but the thing is, you don’t pay the driver cash. You need to go to the information booth and buy a taxi ticket. I bought a round trip at a cost of about $5 each way and off we went. The knife village is outside of town and we drove through farm land for about ten minutes and were dropped off at the entrance.
We went into the retail shop and reception area where we were greeted by a couple of clerks. We were told where to start the tour and it was free. It was interesting for me, but I already knew the knife making process and what we were seeing. Probably less interesting for Donna, but she had a great time shopping for kitchen accessories in their retail space.
We worked our way through the viewing areas, then found another small shop with another viewing space behind the retail store. A guy walked past me, turned and looked me straight in the eye and entered the shop. As he walked to the back of the shop, I realized he was Yu Kurosaki, a young and already well-known knife maker. There were only a couple of workers in the shop as it was lunchtime, but then I noticed their shirts had Kurosaki Knifeworks logos. Yu and his brother Makoto came up through the Takefu apprentice program and now own their own businesses.
After the short tour and Donna’s shopping adventure, we took a taxi back to the station. It turned out that Donna’s plan to make Takefu a stopover on the way to Kanazawa was a good call. I didn’t need more than a couple of hours to take it all in.
I know I’ve already talked a bit about the toilets in Japan – even public toilets are mostly elaborate. Donna snapped an instructional toilet placard in the train station restroom.
Kanazawa Station is fairly large, but not on the scale of Kyoto or Tokyo Station. We found the main entrance/exit easily enough. We had reservations at the Hotel Torifito Kanazawa a few blocks away from the station.
This hotel lobby was similar to what we would expect in America. A few clerks at a check-in counter with a roped off area for patrons to line up. It had a small restaurant attached to the lobby and two elevators. There was also a small business center with additional seating for any time you wanted to hang out in the hotel lobby.
Our room was on the fourth floor and a little larger than I expected. It was late afternoon by then. To be honest, I don’t recall what we did for dinner, I was tired from the day’s travel.
The following morning we found Family Mart a couple of blocks down the street from the hotel. This Family Mart had a seating area, the usual coffee machines and cold breakfast selections. The freshly made sandwiches and noodle dishes are intended for breakfast or for lunch. They also had packaged fruits – I may have already described the packaged fruit, but I have to say I’ve never found anything like them here in the US. It’s not packed in syrup – high fructose or whatever. Instead it has a light but tasty, natural juice and I really liked it.
We walked and explored the area near our hotel. Right across the street from the hotel was a small playground and Shinto Shrine. On a few occasions we saw parents bring young kids to the playground and use the swingset. We often saw people walking on the street stop and bow and presumably say a quick prayer at the shrine.
There was another Shinto Shrine a few blocks away at the intersection of Kanazawa Echidori Avenue – a major thoroughfare that we would become well-acquainted with. We learned that there was an alternative way to get across the busy avenue. Instead of waiting for the traffic light at a crosswalk, we could go down to an underground passageway. Some of these passages just got you across the street, others were more elaborate and you could enter department stores from below.
We stopped somewhere during our wandering and had lunch at a noodle place.
We found a bar later called Harry’s Place. It turned out to be a whiskey bar, one with the largest selection of whiskeys from around the world I’ve ever seen. I had to sample a couple of Japanese whiskys. The bartender was very knowledgeable and asked me about the taste profile I preferred, then made suggestions. After I ordered the first sample, he brought me a book that had descriptions and general information of many of the Japanese distilleries and their offerings. We left after I tried two. Donna isn’t a whisky drinker and that’s all they have there.
I wrote this post later than I expected to. The reason was due to processing of the photos. I take photos from my phone or Donna’s and resize them, compress the jpg image to reduce the file size (it loads faster for you) and sharpen them and/or correct color balance when needed. I usually do this with a quick work process through Photoshop Elements. I don’t have or need the full Photoshop suite – it’s too expensive and I just do a quick clean-up anyway.
Well, my computer started crashing while I was processing photos. At first I thought my laptop was going down. Then it occurred to me that the only time I had issues was when I used Photoshop Elements. So I processed the photos for this post with Gimp. This program is a little more cumbersome and time-consuming, but I learned some shortcuts while doing these images. And had no computer crashes. So I think my theory was correct – Photoshop Elements has a corrupted file and I need to stop using it.
With that in mind, I’ll end this post here, but there’s more to say about Kanazawa soon.