Category Archives: Arizona

Rough Road Ahead

I think we woke up a little groggy yesterday. We only had two margaritas each the night before, celebrating our 8th anniversary, but mixed drinks, especially tequila, don’t sit well with me.

We went about our usual chores to break camp, but we had a twist. Donna had to return the rental car and I would follow to meet her at the Hertz agency. We were pressing a bit since we needed to have the car back before 10am or face additional charges. Donna rolled out at 9:30am and I followed shortly after.

The first SNAFU came when the Hertz agency couldn’t generate an invoice. They had a computer glitch of some sort. I was double parked in the road with my four-way flashers on, waiting for Donna to come out. There wasn’t much traffic, so it wasn’t a big deal. We finally got out of there with the agent promising to e-mail the invoice.

From there, we rolled up US89 to the Conoco station I’d checked out before. It had easy access and trucker lanes with long pull-throughs. As we pulled in, Donna noticed that the trucker lanes were priced higher than the regular car lanes. This is due to the difference in highway taxes for trucks versus passenger cars.

The gas station had a lot of real estate, so I could turn around and line up at a passenger car lane that had diesel fuel. I was feeling pretty good about this as I extended the generator slide on the front cap to allow access to our fuel fillers.

I stepped out and ran my credit card through the reader and began to pump fuel. I looked up and felt a shock I can’t describe. I saw our living room slide cocked away from the body of our coach. The top of the slide out was four or five inches away from the wall it should be seated against while the bottom of the slide looked to be seated against the side of the coach.

Oh no! How could this be?

I went back into the coach and told Donna we had a problem. I apparently missed a big issue on my walk-around before leaving the park. I didn’t look up. I had been driving down the road with the living room slide unsecured.

After pumping $256 worth of diesel fuel into our tank, I pulled away from the pump and circled the station. Luckily, this station has a lot of pavement to accommodate big trucks. We pulled off to the side. I opened the trailer and retrieved our ladders.

After examining the outside of the slide and using our short ladder to look inside the coach, I found that the slide seal had rolled and was jamming the slide. I pulled, poked and prodded for the next 30 minutes. When I thought I had the seal in a position that would allow the slide to move in, I shot it with 3M dry silicon spray to ease its movement. This sounds simple, but the entire operation entailed an hour of effort.

I held my breath and pushed the slide retract button. It came in and seated. Whew! We have a problem to solve though. This isn’t a good thing and it won’t just heal itself.

From there, we rolled up US89. The road climbed past  Sunset Crater, then we descended most of the way to Cameron and onwards north. Just past Cameron, there was a sign that said “Rough Road Next 24 Miles.” It didn’t seem too bad at first. The speed limit was 65 mph, I had the cruise control set at 62 mph, which seemed comfortable. There were passing lanes every few miles, socars that wanted to cruise faster could overtake me. Suddenly, without warning, the road became a series of whoop-de-doos, something made for a motorcycle supercross track. We were literally launched into the air, I felt the front suspension top out twice before I could slow down and regain control. It was ridiculous. What was the Arizona Department of Transportation thinking? They had a rough road sign 10 miles before this section and no warning when the going really got rough.

We were both thinking of a lunch and potty break as we approached Gap, AZ. US89 suffered a landslide on February 20, 2013 and the road is still closed 26 miles north of Gap. If you want to go to Page, you need to make a right turn at Gap onto BIA 20. This is poorly marked, but lucky for us, Donna caught the sign. But, we were unable to find a suitable stopping point at Gap. It’s just a cross roads with a gas station and trading post.

BIA 20 is a Navajo Nation roadway that takes you 40+ miles through Lechee to Page. The road has no shoulder or turn outs, it’s just a slog all the way to Page. When we finally found Page we stopped at WalMart. Donna was famished and my bladder was at its limit.

We walked a quarter of a mile down the highway in search of food. Donna had noticed a pizzeria sign on our way in. When we got there, it was either closed or out of business. But we saw another restaurant offering a Mandarin buffet. This could work. Both of us were hungry. We walked across the lot and were surprised to see the place busy at 2pm.

The food was decent, I’d give it a 3.5 on a scale of 5. We went for seconds. Our hunger satisfied, we walked back to our coach.

It was a short drive through Page to the Glen Canyon Bridge. We crossed the bridge and looked for the visitor center. We found the Carl Hayden Visitor Center. You must stop here if you are in the area. The parking lot can accommodate a big rig. The views are great and the center is nothing short of a museum.

 

Bridge

Glen Canyon Bridge

 

Looking across the Glen Canyon dam

Looking across the Glen Canyon Dam

 

Top of the Glen Canyon dam

Top of the Glen Canyon Dam

 

I couldn't capture the scope of the entire dam, but this gives some sense of depth

I couldn’t capture the scope of the entire dam, but this gives some sense of depth.

Lake Powell is the second largest man-made reservoir in the United States (only Lake Mead is larger). It generates power for the grid encompassing Arizona, New Mexico, Utah, Colorado and Wyoming.

 

Donna next to a turbine that's one fifth scale of the actual turbines in the dam

Donna next to a turbine that’s one-fifth scale of the actual turbines in the dam

Wahweap marina in the background, prickly pear flowering in the foreground

Wahweap Marina in the background with flowering prickly pear cactus in the foreground

We drove up the highway and pulled off at the Lone Rock Road. This is an entrance to the Glen Canyon National Recreational Area. Our National Parks pass got us in without paying the $15 per vehicle entrance fee. We paid $20 for an overnight camping pass for two nights ($10 per night).

The road is paved for a couple of miles in and there are two paved parking areas. One is in view from the entrance, the other is just before the pavement ends. The last parking area has a wide turnaround.

We stopped at the last paved parking area to walk and look the area over. A guy who obviously knew the area directed us to the best dirt road in. We trusted his advice and could see rigs in the area he directed us toward.

Here’s our latest spot on the planet.

This is why it's called Lone Rock.

This is why it’s called Lone Rock.

 

The beach at Lone Rock

The beach at Lone Rock

 

Our latest hideaway

Our latest hideaway

We’re currently set up with only the bedrooms slides out. The living room slide started to bind again and it needs attention. I don’t want to break anything, or have the slide stuck in an open position. Fortunately, our floorplan is livable even with the slide in. We have a little less space and Donna can’t access her spice cabinet, but other than that, it’s fine.

We strolled down along the beach. The sand is very fine, like powdered sugar. When we returned, we set our camp chairs in the shade of the coach and enjoyed the view with tortilla chips and homemade guacamole. Donna made unstuffed cabbage rolls for dinner on the induction cooktop.

We have a weak Verizon signal – most of time it’s only 1X. The Jetpack picks up 3G at times, allowing us to access the Internet.

No big plans for today. Tomorrow we’ll head back down to Page, then cross the Navajo reservation and follow US191 to Bluff, Utah.

 

 

 

Blowin’ in the Wind

When I woke up yesterday, there was a strong wind blowing. Occasional gusts would slam into the coach and rock our 30,000-lb. rig. When I took the trash out to the dumpster, I found that the temperature had dropped. The colder air coupled with strong wind cut through and chilled me quickly.

I spent most of the day indoors, reading a book and catching up on other blogs I follow. I ventured out to stroll around the park and get some fresh air a time or two, but it wasn’t comfortable outside. I set up my practice amp and played guitar inside. The wind became stronger as the day wore on. It was blowing at 30 – 35 mph with gusts that were reported to be 50 mph.

Our coach is in a somewhat protected spot. We have a building and a travel trailer on our left and several large RVs on our right. The wind was coming from the southwest and slammed the right front of the coach. The tire cover blew off a few times, I finally gave up on it and left it off.

Last night, around 7:30pm, I drove into town and shopped at Bashas. I stocked up on beer and also bought liquor. When we leave here tomorrow, we’ll go to Lake Powell. We’ll be on the Utah side. Utah is not the place to buy beer or liquor. Retail stores can only sell beer that is 3.2% alcohol by volume (ABV) or lower – 3.2% is watery. It lacks body and is not to my liking. Most beer is normally  4.2 to 5.2% ABV and IPA or other specialty beer is typically 6 – 7% ABV.

In Utah, regular beers and liquors are sold in state-run stores. With no competition, they fix the price and the price is high. So I planned ahead and stocked up. I have an app on my smart phone from the folks at Technomadia called State Lines. This app contains information on every state such as tax rates on purchases and fuel, liquor laws, speed limits and so on. It’s really helpful.

After shopping, I drove to the Flagstaff Pulliam Airport to pick up Donna. Her flight was scheduled to arrive at 8:40pm. I was pleased to find free parking at the airport. She arrived on time and we were home by 9pm.

This morning, the wind subsided. It’s cold though. We ran the propane furnace overnight and kept the coach at 60 degrees. Outside was near freezing. I’ll pack our outdoor gear this morning in preparation for an early departure tomorrow. I’ll also remove and store the tire covers.

I want to have everything put away before noon. This afternoon’s forecast calls for 20mph wind with a 30% chance of a thunderstorm. The humidity is predicted to rise over 40% this afternoon. We haven’t felt humidity in months.

Tonight we’ll go out to a local Mexican restaurant called Salsa Brava. We will have a late anniversary celebration. We weren’t able to celebrate on our actual anniversary date, May 5th, due to Donna’s travel to New York City. Lucky for me, Cinco de Mayo always falls on May 5th, so I never forget our anniversary.

Tomorrow, we’ll head north. I don’t know if we’ll have internet connectivity at Lake Powell. Our plan is to stay there for a couple of nights, then come back into Arizona. We’ll drive east across the Navajo Nation on US160, then head north on US191 back into Utah. Eventually we’ll make our way to Moab.

Get ‘er Done

I was up early yesterday. I would say it was “dark thirty,” but I was surprised to find daylight at 5:30am. I drove Donna to the Flagstaff Pulliam airport and dropped her off for her flight to New York City at 6:00am. On the way home, I drove through McDonald’s and bought two egg and sausage breakfast burritos. I rarely eat food from McDonald’s and this wasn’t the best decision I made all day.

Back at the coach, I had another cup of coffee and ate breakfast. I was feeling tired. I didn’t sleep well the night before. We had strong wind gusts in the night that continued throughout the morning. The wind rocked the coach in the night and woke me several times. Why is it that any time I have to get up early to an alarm clock, I sleep fitfully?

I wrote a short blog post, then kicked back on the sofa read the book, Code Talkers, for awhile. I was thinking I could nap. I didn’t sleep. After a while, I was feeling a little restless so I took a walk around the RV park.

Sunday, an old coach pulled into a site near us. It looked like an old Newell to me. While I was out walking, I saw a guy working in the engine compartment. I stopped at his site and said, “Good morning.” I introduced myself and asked what he was up to. His name was Louis. He’s from Alberta, Canada. He had just bought the coach and was having troubles. He said he’s only covered about 400 miles in the last week since buying the coach because he has electrical problems. He needed to get back to Canada.

The coach turned out to be a 1993 Barth, not a Newell. I hadn’t heard of Barth before, but I learned a few things about them. Back in the day, they were a high-end motorhome manufacturer. This Barth was built on a Gillig bus chassis. The outer skin was all aluminum. In 1993, it was a very exclusive coach. Louis bought it from the original owner.

He told me his batteries weren’t holding a charge. After he bought the coach, he replaced the batteries. I asked if I could help. He wanted all the help he could get. He wasn’t sure if the two chassis batteries and the bank of coach batteries were supposed to charge at the same time. I looked at the chassis batteries in the engine compartment and tried to find a transfer switch. I told Louis how most coaches are wired and how it usually works. He said he had wiring diagrams. Now we were getting somewhere.

I checked the chassis batteries and they were fine. I asked where the coach (house) batteries were. He showed me a compartment with batteries on two levels – six 12-volt batteries in total! They were massive, the biggest 12-volt batteries I’ve seen. He told me that three of them were new and they were the only ones wired into the system. I could see the new Lifeline AGM batteries he’d installed. These are very expensive batteries – around $600 each.

I checked the voltage at these batteries. I asked Louis if he had them wired in parallel. He said he was sure they were. I was sure they weren’t wired correctly. One battery on the lower deck showed completely dead, only registering 1.44 volts. The other two were fully charged. This doesn’t make sense if they are wired in parallel.

The batteries were very large. To follow the cabling, I had to use a flashlight and reach my full arm’s length into the compartment. By following the cables, I found the issue. The cables from the dead battery in the lower compartment went through the bulkhead into the house. Presumably, they went to a fuse panel, buss bar or post to power the various household 12-volt items. However, the battery wasn’t connected in parallel to the other two batteries.

The other two batteries were wired in parallel. However, they didn’t connect to the house. They were connected to the inverter which charges the batteries. So, what he had was a battery powering his house, but not receiving a charge. He had two more batteries, not powering anything, but being maintained at full charge. No wonder he was losing power to everything inside.

As I was explaining this to him, another neighbor, Jerry, came over. Jerry has a Travel Supreme coach across from our site. We made some small talk and then Jerry said he was looking for an electrician. He said the plug on the end of his 50amp power cord was broken. The ground lug pulled out of the molded plastic plug and he couldn’t run his air conditioners. His wife wasn’t happy with no A/C. He had a new replacement plug, but thought he needed an electrician to wire it up.

I loaned a few tools to Louis to rewire his battery bank and told Jerry, “You don’t need to pay an electrician. Let’s get ‘er done.” I thought I could wire up the new connector in 20 or 30 minutes. It never seems to work out that way. Once I was into the project, Jerry told me that the plug came with instructions showing what length to cut each wire. Rather than walk back to my trailer and retrieve a tape measure from my toolbox, I used the TLAR method (That Looks About Right).

The heavy-gauge wire in a 50amp cable is very stiff. In hindsight, measuring first and cutting once would have been the way to go. I made three attempts at wiring the plug before I could get all of the wire to fit properly. An hour and half later, a 30-minute job was done.

I enjoyed helping the guys out. That’s RV life. With Donna away, I had nothing better to do.

The wind remained gusty all day. Today, they are calling for higher winds. I’ll hunker down and wait for Donna to return tonight.

Lazy Sunday

Yesterday was a lazy day. Donna went for a hike in the morning and climbed up a mountain towards Elden Lookout. She found another greater short horned lizard on the way up. She had a great view from up there. She posted pictures from her hike on Facebook, but I don’t have them to add to this post.

After lunch she took the car and went shopping. She bought clothing and a new suitcase. She also bought another external hard drive. I spent most of the day kicking back and reading books. I finished an Elmore Leonard novel and started reading Code Talker. I can already see that this tale is a winner. It’s a memoir of Chester Nez, one of the original World War II Navajo code talkers.

Last night, I connected the new hard drive to the Dish 211z HD receiver. It wouldn’t format. I had an error message telling me to call customer service. When I called, I found that I had to pay $40 for Dish to activate DVR functionality. Grrrr. They didn’t say that when I bought the service. Hopefully the Moto GP race recorded overnight and I can watch it today.

Last night, Donna prepared boneless chicken thighs with a dry rub. I grilled the chicken and basted them with a maple-chipotle barbeque sauce that Donna made. Delicious.

Grilled chicken with maple-chipotle barbeque sauce

Grilled chicken with maple-chipotle barbeque sauce

I was up early this morning. I drove Donna to the airport at 5:45 AM. She’s flying to New York City to do a satellite media tour at a TV studio there. She’ll be back tomorrow night.

Happy Cinco de Mayo! May 5th is also our anniversary. I don’t have any trouble remembering when our anniversary is. We usually toast our anniversary with a margarita. That will have to wait until Wednesday this year.

Grand Canyon Day Trip

Yesterday, we drove the rental car to the Grand Canyon National Park. We left the RV park around 10am and drove north on US89 to the little town called Cameron. We wanted to make a stop there to poke around in the Cameron Trading Post and also have an early lunch.

Cameron Trading Post

Cameron Trading Post

Donna bought a few items, including the book Code Talker for me. This book is a memoir of Chester Nez, the only living member of the Navajo code talkers of World War II. We went to the restaurant to have Navajo tacos. Navajo tacos are made with Indian fry bread. When we saw how large the portion was, we decided to split an order. The fry bread was the size of a large dinner plate – half was more than enough.

Navajo taco

Navajo taco

The fresh fry bread was light and crispy. I heartily recommend trying this dish, but you better be hungry!

From Cameron we turned back south and drove a mile to the junction of AZ64, where we turned west. This road takes you through the western end of the Navajo reservation to the east entrance of the Grand Canyon National Park. Several miles up the road, there’s a sign for a scenic overlook of the Little Colorado River Gorge. It’s on tribal land and the overlook is operated by the tribe. They ask for a donation at the entrance. We pulled in to take a look.

Little Colorado gorge

Little Colorado River Gorge

The view is nice, but it wasn’t worth the stop. The views in the national park blow it away.

Most people enter the Grand Canyon National Park from the south entrance on US180. This is the entrance closest to the village with hotels and restaurants. From there, most tourists never get to the east end of the park. When we entered at the east entrance, there was only one car in front of us. We used our annual National Parks and Recreation pass and didn’t have the pay the $25 per vehicle entrance fee. This pass was a parting gift from my colleagues when I retired. It expires next month. We’re planning to buy another one. It’s well worth the $80 cost.

Our first stop was at the Desert View Watch Tower. I’ve always come into the park from the south entrance and had never seen the tower before.

Desert View Watch Tower

Desert View Watch Tower

The tower was built in 1932. It wasn’t a replica of anything that existed earlier. It was an original design that was made in the manner of traditional construction found in the area. The tower is a few hundred yards from the parking lot. There are other buildings along the paved path to the tower, including a store, restaurant and public restrooms. The restrooms were modern and clean.

Behind the tower, the view was nothing short of spectacular.

View to the northeast from the tower

View to the northeast from the tower

View to the northwest from the tower

View to the northwest from the tower

We went inside the tower and climbed a steep staircase to the second floor. We walked out on an observation deck there. The view was great, but there were tiny black flying insects that were annoying us. We decided to move on.

Our next stop was less than two miles up the road. We stopped at Navajo Point, then Lipan Point and enjoyed more spectacular views of the Grand Canyon and Colorado River below.

You can see a portion of the Colorado River from Lipan Point

You can see a portion of the Colorado River from Lipan Point

Another view from Lipan Point

Another view from Lipan Point

We continued on along the East Rim Road (AZ64) through the park, stopping at most of the view points. The temperature was in the upper 70s and the air was very dry. We were 7,200 feet above sea level. We could feel the altitude as we walked around the view points. It was easy to run out of breath!

5_3GC3

We saw a man painting the landscape in oil on canvas at one view point.

Painter

Landscape artist

Donna found a level rock near the edge and struck a yoga pose.

Donna posing

Donna in tree pose

The little black insects were everywhere. We must have timed our visit to coincide with a large hatch. They seemed to be attracted to white. We saw white cars in the parking lots covered with the insects. They continued to annoy us and several would find their way into our car every time we opened the doors.

After awhile, the stunning views become mind numbing. It reminded me of the time we visited the giant redwoods. At first, the ancient old trees caused us to stop and stare in wonder. But after awhile, we just said, “Hey, there’s another big one” and moved on.

After we stopped at Grandview Point, we decided we had seen enough and drove on to the junction of US180 near the village and left the park.

Grandview

Grandview

Spectacular!

Spectacular!

US180 took us over an 8,000′ pass near the Snow Bowl ski area. When we made it into Flagstaff, around 4pm, a stop at the Beaver Street Brewery was in order. I enjoyed their stout while Donna had the del Sol – a Mexican style lager.

When we returned to the RV park, we found that several of the sites had emptied during the day and a few newcomers arrived. We were still feeling full from the Navajo tacos and didn’t have much of an appetite. Later, Donna made a light meal – cumin spiced tilapia and Spanish rice.

This morning, we awoke to unexpected gusty winds. The weather guessers are calling for  high of 72 today. A cold front is forecast to hit the area on Wednesday.

Drip, Drip, Drip

Yesterday, while I was writing my blog post in the morning, Donna got ready to head out. She scheduled a taxi pick-up at 9:30am. The taxi took her to the Hertz rental car agency a few miles from here. From there, she drove to downtown Flagstaff for a hair appointment.

Our Moen single handle faucet for the bathroom sink has been troublesome lately. The problem started when we were at the North Ranch RV park in Congress. We had to pull the handle to the off position very carefully or it would drip. Sometimes we had to move the handle to different positions before the dripping stopped. I hadn’t done anything about it because we hadn’t been near a hardware store. I was pretty sure if I started taking the faucet apart, I would need to have parts available.

While Donna was getting ready to go out, she couldn’t get the faucet to turn off. It wasn’t just dripping. The water was running out of the faucet. I played around with the handle, but couldn’t get it to stop. I went outside and shut off our water supply. It was time to do something about the faucet.

I’m not much of a plumber and I’ve never disassembled a Moen single handle faucet. It was like peeling an onion. You work your way through the layers. I started by removing the handle. Then I saw a snap ring that held a trim piece in place. After that, I removed a plastic housing. Then I was at the heart of the matter. I could see the shut-off valve. I turned on our water pump to supply water from the fresh water tank. By manually moving the valve, I turned the faucet on and off. There were hard water deposits and some rust on most of the parts. I couldn’t figure out how to remove the actual valve. I cleaned all of the parts and put it back together. No good. It still wouldn’t shut off.

Our Moen single handle bathroom faucet

Our Moen single handle bathroom faucet

I disassembled everything again. This time I knew I had to remove the valve. I used a mirror and could see what looked like a set screw holding it in place on the back side. I couldn’t get a screwdriver on it. I finally went online and found instructions for disassembling a Moen single handle faucet. What I thought was a set screw was actually the top of a “U” shaped clip. I pried the clip out and voila! I pulled the valve cartridge out.

Old cartridge

Old cartridge

I compared the cartridge to parts I found online. It was a #1225 Moen cartridge. I searched for hardware stores online and found an Ace hardware near the downtown district. When Donna returned, I took the rental car and headed into town. As I drove down Route 66 past the big shopping mall at East Marketplace Drive, I saw a sign for Home Depot. I stopped there and found the part I needed.

New cartridge

New cartridge

I told Donna when I put it back together that I had a 50/50 chance of having the cartridge oriented correctly so the hot water would be on the left. Of course, it was wrong. I partially disassembled it again and spun the cartridge 180 degrees. Now it’s perfect!

While I was working on the faucet, Donna went hiking. There are a series of hiking/mountain biking trails on the west side of US89 near our location. On her hike, she found an unusual lizard blending into some rocks. It was a greater short horned lizard. It’s one of the few lizards that tolerate cold weather. It can be found at elevations as high as 11,000 feet!

Greater short horned lizard Donna encountered

Greater short horned lizard Donna encountered

When we arrived here at J & H RV Park on May 1st, it was their opening day. There were only two other rigs in the park. Yesterday, the park filled up. It’s still very quiet here. They delivered a picnic table to our site and had another dumpster delivered for trash disposal. Someone running the place certainly has a sense of humor. There are a few corny signs in the park.

Sign next to the trash dumpster

Sign next to the trash dumpster

There’s a mural painted on the exterior wall of the office depicting points of interest.

Mural of points of interest

Mural of points of interest

We drove into town around 4:30pm and went to the Beaver Street Brewery. This brew house and restaurant was recommended by our friend, Peter Swingle. I sampled a few of their brews – an IPA, an amber and a pale ale. They were all quite good. We also ordered two 10″ pizzas at the bar. We had the three sausage pizza and the pepperoni pizzazz. Their thin crust pizza was great.

We chatted with another couple at the bar. They were from Seattle and had been hiking and camping in Utah. They were a little older than us, but obviously fit and hardy. Their style of dry camping is to hike in with everything they needed on their backs to camp for a few days. They told us of a few interesting places we should check out in Utah.

We stopped at the Cost Plus World Market on the way home. I bought a few bottles of interesting beers and Donna found some snacks for us. We watched the season one final episode of The Americans last night.

Today, we plan to make the 90-mile drive to the Grand Canyon National Park. We’ll hike and have a look around. I’ve been there several times. I wrote about the time I hiked to the river at the bottom and camped overnight with my friend, Jim Birditt in this post.

Yesterday’s weather was near perfect – 70 degrees, clear skies and light wind. Today we’ll have more of the same with the thermometer hitting 75. A perfect day to go sightseeing.

May Day

Wow, yesterday was May 1st. We’re already a third of the way through 2014! Where does the time go? It’s been more than nine months since we left our sticks-and-bricks home behind us.

We pulled out of Distant Drums RV Park at 9:50am yesterday. We went around the roundabout on Middle Verde Road and entered the I-17 onramp. We were on our way north to Flagstaff. When we entered the interstate, our elevation was 4,000 feet above sea level. The highway climbs quickly. I was maintaining 55 – 60 mph without working the Cummins diesel too hard.

The trick is to maintain your momentum and to downshift on the steeper grades. I manually downshift the transmission to run the engine near its peak horsepower at 1900 – 2000 rpm. This is easier on the motor than lugging uphill. It also spins the water pump, moving coolant through the engine quickly and keeping the engine temperatures from climbing. There were heavily loaded tractor-trailer rigs laboring their way along at 35 – 40 mph. I tried to time my approach to them by watching traffic in the passing lane, then swinging over to that lane around the slow trucks without dropping my speed. Once you slow down to match the speed of the slow truck, you probably won’t be able to accelerate past it until you crest the grade.

At one point, on a steep climb, a car was merging into our lane from the onramp. He was oblivious and about to enter the freeway in front of us at 45 mph. I held my speed and laid on the air horns. That woke him up. He accelerated ahead.

After 20 miles or so, we were at an elevation of 6,000 feet. The terrain was completely different as we drove through heavily wooded pine forest. Arizona is not all desert. The northern third of the state is high mountain forest. We were no longer in the desert. As we came around a bend in the road, we were facing the San Francisco Peaks. The San Francisco Peaks are a mountain range north of Flagstaff. The highest point in Arizona, Humphreys Peak at 12,633 feet, is in this range.

Snowy peak

Snowy peak

We turned east on I-40 and drove about six miles to US89. We followed US89 to our present location, the J & H RV Park. It’s a quiet little park with 51 sites. We’re in a roomy pull-through site and didn’t have to drop the trailer. The elevation here is 7,000 feet above sea level. We have mountain views around us. After we settled in, Donna and I walked a couple hundred yards down the highway to Subway for lunch.

Last night Donna made shrimp with zucchini and tomatoes over spaghetti noodles.

Shrimp with zucchini and tomatoes

Shrimp with zucchini and tomatoes

The overnight low temperature was forecast to be in the low 30s. Before we went to bed, I turned on the furnace and set the thermostat at 53 degrees. This is the first time we’ve used the propane furnace. The heat pumps aren’t very effective once the temperature drops below the high 30s.

Today, Donna is taking a taxi to the Hertz rental car office. They will reimburse her up to $15 for the taxi cost. She’s renting a car while we’re here in Flagstaff. We’ll have a car to go sightseeing and I can drive her to the airport on Monday. She’s flying to New York City on Monday for a satellite media tour. This morning, after she picks up the car, she’s going into town for a haircut.

We’ll probably head downtown later today. Flagstaff is a college town and there are some cool places to eat and sample local beer.

Dinosaur Footprints

Yesterday, Donna and I put on our hiking shoes and went for a walk. Donna had looked at Google Earth and saw what looked like hiking trails across the road from the RV park. Before we left, I walked to the office and asked about hiking in the area.The woman there told me that most people hike across the street on the trails Donna saw. She said she’d never hiked there, but heard tales of dinosaur footprints fossilized in the hills.

We crossed the street late in the morning and followed the trail. It was directly across from the RV park entrance. We hiked down into a wash then started on an uphill path. I put my hand on Donna’s arm and said, “Stop!” There was a snake sunning himself in the trail a few feet in front of us. It was a harmless western patch-nose. I told Donna that snakes are cold-blooded. Since the temperature was in the low 70s, he probably wouldn’t move all that fast. I stepped forward to take a picture of it. He took off like shot and disappeared into the brush. So much for my theory of cold-blooded reptiles being slow at that temperature.

The trail meandered up and down. Sometimes we were hiking in the bottom of the wash, other times we were climbing the hillside. There were many wild flowers blooming along the trail. I didn’t try to photograph them because the were all moving with the wind. I didn’t think my Samsung Galaxy would capture a good image. Along the wash, we were walking under eroded limestone walls.

Lime stone cliffs

Limestone cliffs

As we climbed up a hill, I saw motion on my right. We watched as a rock squirrel, startled by our arrival, scrambled up the steep hill side. He disappeared up in the cliff above us. Rock squirrels are the largest squirrel species in Arizona. Unlike most squirrels, they are omnivorous. They will climb in trees and ocotillo cactus to feed on buds and they will also catch and eat birds, rodents and reptiles.

Bottom of the wash

Bottom of the wash

There were trails that crossed the wash. We climbed out of the wash on one of the trails. It led us up to the top of a ridge where it suddenly ended. We took a look around and walked back down. We followed another trail up to a hill top. From there it looked like the trail went on for miles. We turned back.

Donna taking a look over the ridge

Donna taking a look over the ridge

It was nice to be able to get away from civilization by taking a short hike across the road. Once we were back in the hills, we didn’t hear anything but the sounds of nature. I wish we saw more wildlife, but it was an interesting hike nonetheless. Donna enjoyed all of the wild flowers. We didn’t find any dinosaur footprints. I’m not sure if I would recognize fossilized dinosaur footprints if I saw them.

Later, I rode the scooter over to the town of Camp Verde. I went to Basha’s grocery and picked up a case of water and some Black Box Cabernet Sauvignon.  On the way there, I passed signs for Montezuma Castle and Montezuma Well. These are national monuments. We’ve visited Montezuma Castle before. It’s a 20-room cliff dwelling. We may go there again today.

I made reservations for us at J&H RV park in Flagstaff. We’ll go there tomorrow and stay for a week. It’s been windy here, but the wind is supposed to calm down again tomorrow. Flagstaff weather looks good for the week ahead.

J&H RV Park should be interesting. They have strict rules. No smoking on any part of the property. No motorcycles or ATVs. Children under the age of 16 must be accompanied by an adult at all times. I’m thinking it will be a quiet place. We’ll leave the scooter in the trailer and rent a car.

Last night I grilled a pork tenderloin that Donna prepared with a chili-maple syrup glaze and sweet potato hash on the side. It was excellent!

Chili-glazed pork tenderloin with sweet potato hash

Chili-glazed pork tenderloin with sweet potato hash

I start packing the trailer this afternoon. We would like to be out of here around 10am tomorrow. So I doubt if you’ll hear from me tomorrow.

Ditched Our Plan

Yesterday, Donna and I left our dry camping area around 11:30am to hike and check out camping areas. We wanted to stay in the area until Thursday, then move up to Flagstaff for a week. Donna needs to fly to New York for a media tour on Monday morning and return on Tuesday night. She’ll fly out of Flagstaff.

We walked down to the site we saw the night before. An ATV tour guide company unloaded four ATVs at the site. We walked on down the road. A half mile in, we found a spur road on the left and walked down it. There was a great looking site a few hundred yards down the road, but someone was already there. We continued on and found a few more open spots, but they weren’t very level or weren’t large enough for our rig.

We finally found a site that was fairly level and large. It was near a radio-controlled (RC) airplane field. A guy driving a pickup truck told us there would be a large RC meet at the field that weekend. We wouldn’t stay that long, but there would probably be activity at the field leading up to the big meet.

We walked back up the road. We had walked downhill to the site and when we climbed back up the hill, we could see what looked like a site off to our left that we could access from the main road. We decided to cross a field and go directly to the site, rather than walk all the way back to the main road.

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As we got closer, we saw that it wasn’t a site at all, it was just a wide junction of another spur road off the main road. We walked down to the spur road and continued our search. We found an ideal site. It was a flat, round clearing with a tree in the center. It was large enough for us to pull into and circle around the tree to set up. We thought we were set.

We walked back up to the main road. That’s where our plan was dashed. There was a sign there that said the area was closed. No camping, no motorized vehicles. Something to do with watershed reclamation.

We walked a little further down the main road. We came to a point where the road dropped into a gulch. We couldn’t see any likely areas down there, so we turned back. We stopped and looked at the first site with the ATVs again. Donna decided to take my cell phone and hike back to the RC field and see how the Verizon coverage was. We didn’t think to do this the first time we were there. I went back to our coach with her phone.

When she came back, she said she wanted to cross highway 89A and look at a place where we saw other rigs camped. When she came back she said it was a large, flat graveled area with toilets at a trailhead. There were five rigs there including two with horse trailers. She said there was room for one more rig.

We packed up and pulled the slides in, still undecided about which site to move to. We thought we could cross the highway and pull into the site and see if we liked the set-up. If not, we could return to the site with the ATVs.

Right about then, a Dodge Ram pickup pulled into our site. It was Mark and Emily Fagan (roadslesstraveled.us). We stepped outside and greeted them. They were in the area riding their mountain bikes and knew where we were camped. We stood outside and chatted. It’s always great to run into friends on the road.

Mark told me about a couple of other boondocking sites in the area. One was about half a mile away. Then he told me about Beaverhead Flats Road. If we boondocked there, we would be close to the town of Oak Creek. We could also go to Sedona from there. Our current location has us isolated. Highway 89A into Sedona would be a seven-mile run up a steep grade with a 65mph speed limit. I thought that we would be pushing the scooter too hard to ride two up under those conditions.

I told Donna I thought we should go to Beaverhead Flats Road. I wanted to be able to go into town and not be so isolated. Later, Donna told me she felt a little uneasy about ditching our plan and taking off into the unknown again. But, she didn’t say anything at the time. By the time we got rolling, it was after 3pm.

We drove back down 89A about five miles to the Cornville exit. We followed the Cornville road for several miles before we found Beaverhead Flats Road. Beaverhead Flats Road took us toward AZ179. Mark mentioned a pullout at a scenic overlook. We thought we could stop there and have a look around. When we reached the overlook, about six miles up the road, I didn’t pull in.

I pulled over onto a wide shoulder area. I didn’t pull into the scenic overlook because the entrance was a narrow road that disappeared around a hill. Without knowing the layout, I could end up in a parking lot too small for me to turn around in. We had another issue to contend with as well.

I haven’t driven this coach enough to know how accurate the fuel gauge is. Our gauge was showing less than half a tank of fuel. This is plenty of fuel to drive for two hundred miles or more, but the generator will not run once the tank is about a quarter full. This is a safety feature to keep from running out of fuel while dry camped in a remote area. The last quarter tank is for the engine only. All motorhomes running generators off the main gasoline or diesel fuel tank are set up this way, at least as far as I know.

The Beaverhead Flats Road ended one mile further on at a stop sign at the junction with AZ179. We turned left and drove toward Oak Creek. I wanted fuel before we dry camped anywhere. We saw a ranger station and wanted to stop for more information on the area. Once again, we were thwarted by a small parking area.

We hit a roundabout at the edge of town and turned back. We didn’t know what to do next. It seems that we’re not very good at picking out boondocking spots on the fly. It’s difficult if you don’t know the area and don’t know what you may be driving into. On Beaverhead Flats Road and on AZ179 there aren’t many places where a big rig can pull over and have a look around.

We pulled over just before AZ179 met I-17 to discuss our next move. We looked at our RV park guide and used the Points of Interest (POI) feature on the GPS. We threw out our dry camp plan and drove to the Distant Drums RV park near Camp Verde. Donna has work to do and we needed to settle in somewhere for a few days.  It was after 5pm by the time we were parked in our site. Thursday we’ll head up to Flagstaff.

We grilled bacon wrapped petite filets with corn on the cob and grilled tomato for dinner.

Bacon wrapped petite filet

Bacon wrapped petite filet

Today, I’ll make reservations for us at a campground in Flagstaff.

 

Getting Turned Around

Yesterday was a travel day, so I got to work in the morning and didn’t post. I had the scooter loaded Saturday evening, but didn’t get much else done due to the cold, windy weather. When I say cold, I mean in the 60s but with a stiff wind.

I started by pulling the wheel covers, then checking and adjusting tire pressures. Donna went out for a walk while I was doing this. When she returned, I cleaned the windshield and rear view mirrors. I waited until she showered to dump the holding tanks. I was in for a surprise.

I had dumped the tanks on the previous Wednesday. I was off my usual weekly schedule, due to us changing our plan and extending our stay. No problems at all on Wednesday. Sunday morning, when I pulled the handle on the blade valve for the black tank, there was an odor. Then there were two two small streams of black water spouting from the top of the sewer hose. Yuck! Something had punctured the top of our sewer hose. It only lasted a few seconds since the tank wasn’t very full and the pressure quickly subsided.

As I flushed out the black tank, I used the outdoor shower wand to spray off the area around the punctured hose.  The two holes were spaced a few inches apart. The were about 1/16″ in diameter. I don’t know what caused this in the top of the hose. The hose was fine four days earlier.

While the tank was rinsing, I saw our new neighbor with the Alpine Coach that pulled in a couple of days ago. I walked over and introduced myself. His name is Ron. He’s owned his 1999 Alpine Coach since he bought it new in 1998. He and his wife have traveled to 49 states (including Alaska), all of the Canadian provinces, all of the states in Mexico, Guatemala and Belize. They’ve been on the road full time since they bought the coach.

Like most Alpine Coach owners, he’s very enthusiastic about the brand. He was one of the original six founding members of the Alpine Coach Association. He and his wife worked as travel guides for RV tour groups. That’s one of the reasons they’ve been to so many places. He currently has about 189,000 miles on his coach and it’s still going strong.

Once I finished with holding tanks and cleaned everything, I threw our sewer hose into the dumpster. We hit the road around 11:30am.

Our route took us back through Wickenburg to the Carefree Highway. I’ve noticed that some people can’t stand driving behind a motorhome, no matter how fast the coach is going. On one stretch of the Carefree Highway, I was driving along at 58 – 60 mph where the speed limit was 55 mph. A guy in a pickup truck pulling a boat made a risky pass. He passed us over a double yellow line where side roads join the highway. Once he was in front of us, he gained about a hundred yards on us before he pulled off at the Lake Pleasant turn off.

We turned north on I-17 and drove up to the Verde Valley. This route climbs into high desert with a series of uphill and downhill sections. I was really pleased with the way our coach handled the grades. On the steepest climbs of six or seven percent, we easily maintained 50 to 55 mph. On the downgrades, I used the engine compression (Jake) brake to keep our speed in check. On steep descents, the low setting on the Jake allowed the speed to slowly creep up. When I switched it to the high setting, it reduced our speed. I played the switch back and forth between low and high to adjust our speed. I never touched the brake pedal. I remembered Ron telling me that at 189,000 miles, he still had the original brake pads.

We turned west on AZ 260 and drove to the WalMart on the outskirts of Cottonwood. We stopped there at about 2 PM. I bought a new Camco Rhinoflex sewer hose and few other RV supplies there.

Donna and I were hungry. We made a rare visit to a fast food place. We ate at Carl’s Jr., Donna had a turkey burger and I ate the western bacon cheese burger. We talked about staying overnight at the WalMart or moving on to boondock on public land. We decided that Donna would shop for groceries while I went online to look for free camping opportunities.

Highway 89A from Cottonwood to Sedona runs through the Coconino National Forest. I saw a few places that looked promising, but it’s hard to tell just by looking at a map or Google Earth how good the roads are. We turned off the highway at Spring Creek Ranch Road. This didn’t work out as we hit a dead end at a gate. Luckily, there was a wide turn around area. We’re always concerned about getting into something we couldn’t get out of.

We continued north and saw a few campers on a small hillside. We pulled into the turning lane and came to a stop before entering. There were two motorcyclists on Honda Goldwings, pulling small pop-up camper trailers exiting the dirt road. Donna jumped out and met them at the stop sign. She asked them whether we could maneuver our rig in there. They advised against it, saying it was very rough. That was why they turned around and were leaving.

We continued north, past the Red Rocks State Park Lower Loop. At the upper loop turn off, I turned in towards the park. I thought it was called a loop for reason. I figured if it’s a loop, we can drive through and take a look. We continued down a narrow, winding road. The scenery was spectacular with views of the famed red rocks. But the only turnouts were small and uneven. We dropped down into a narrow valley and came to a Y intersection. The road on the left led to a recreation area, but there was a “No Outlet” sign and another sign said it was closed at the river crossing. This didn’t sound good. We stayed on the loop to the right.

On the GPS map, it looked like the road would lead us back to the lower loop road and back to the highway. We came upon a rural residential area as the road became narrower. I saw a guy walking on the side of the road and I stopped. I opened my window and asked him if the road looped back to highway 89A. He said it did, but the pavement ends and it climbs through tight switchbacks. I asked him if he thought we could do it in our rig. He was skeptical.

Now our mission was to find a way to get turned around. We weren’t having much luck. Every side road was a short, narrow spur. When we reached the end of the pavement, the road curved sharply to the right. There was another road angling off to the left at the curve. I pulled into the road on the left. Then I backed the trailer into the curve on the dirt road. It was a tight, tricky maneuver, but I had us turned around and heading out of there.

By now it was after 5pm. I was anxious to get off the road. We turned back south on 89A. If we went any further north, we would be in the town of Sedona, where we not be able to park. We pulled off at an RV park on the side of the highway. It was a membership park, so we continued on. We saw an RV off to west in the national forest. We pulled off at forest service road 525. Right away we saw a large turnout. I passed it by and continued down the road. The pavement ended.

There was another smaller turnout ahead. I pulled into it. We debated whether we should continue down the road or turn back and pull into the large turnout we saw. We decided to turn around while we had the chance and park in the large turnout. We could explore later on foot. I couldn’t turn around in the smaller turnout, I had to jockey back and forth, taking care not to hit anything with the trailer before we were out of there.

We found a fairly level area in the large turnout and called it a day. It was beer-thirty for me. With a beer in hand, we took a walk down the road. We found a perfect spot about a quarter of mile from where we turned around. We thought about moving, but it was almost sunset by then. We decided to stay put and explore more of the area in the morning.

Here are a couple of views from the area where we dry camped.

Red and white cliffs in the distance

Red and white cliffs in the distance

Another view

Another view

We started watching a new (to us) series recorded on the hard drive. Last night we watched two episodes of The Americans before we turned in.

Our site at sunset

Our site at sunset

Today, we’ll hike around the area and decide on our next move.