I closed my last post saying we’ll move on toward Bishop. Friday morning we headed out of our boondocking site near Inyokern and drove north on US395. This is a good road – divided highway with two lanes in each direction at times. Other places are undivided and parts are two-lane highway. The traffic is generally light and the surface reasonably smooth.
This route took us up the Owens Valley. This area is mostly arid nowadays, but it wasn’t always that way. The Owens Valley is bordered on the west by the eastern slopes of the Sierra Nevada range. On the east, the White Mountains – also called the Inyo Mountains – form the boundary. The once fertile valley is fed by water runoff from the mountains.
In the early 1900s, unscrupulous politicians and bureaucrats working with the Los Angeles Department of Water and Power began surreptitiously buying property to acquire water rights. William Mulholland had a plan to build an aqueduct to divert water from the Owens Valley to the Los Angeles basin and allow future growth. They took water from the Owens River and sent it through the aqueduct beginning in 1913. Owens Lake at the time was 19 miles long and eight miles wide. By 1926, Owens lake was a dry lake bed. It fed one third of LA’s water supply and the lake was desiccated.
The 1974 film Chinatown starring Jack Nicholson and Faye Dunaway is a fictional account of the water wars in the Owens Valley. Today, some water has refilled portions of Owens Lake, but it’s still mostly dry and in 2013 was declared the biggest source of dust pollution in the USA.
After a couple of hours, we made a stop in Big Pine. We found ample room to park our rig next to a small city park in town. There was an information center at the corner of US395 and CA168. This center was about the Ancient Bristlecone Pine Forest. We also looked at the campground next to the information center, but decided to move on.
I topped up our fuel tank with $200 worth of diesel fuel in Big Pine. In California, $200 buys about 50 gallons – California has some of the highest fuel prices in the country.
We came to Bishop and found parking at the Vons/Kmart center. It was posted “No Overnight Parking” but after buying groceries in Vons, we asked about it. We were told we wouldn’t have any problems. So we set up for the night. Bishop is at an elevation of just under 4,200 feet above sea level. There are peaks all around reaching elevations of 10,000 feet.
Later that afternoon, we walked about half a mile to the ranger station and I bought an Interagency Senior Lifetime Pass for $80. This will get us into national parks for free and give us half price discounts on forest service and BLM campgrounds.
We thought about taking the Spyder up to the Ancient Bristlecone Pine Forest but we heard at the ranger station that we were likely to encounter snow at 9,000 feet. And, in any event, it would be a cold ride. The ancient pines – the oldest living trees in the world – are above 9,800 feet.
We changed our plans and went to the Laws Railroad Museum. Laws is a small community about four miles from Bishop on Route 6. The highway, US6, crosses the country from Bishop, California to Provincetown, Massachusetts. We love to travel on these old highways.
The Laws Railroad Museum is really a re-creation of a ghost town. Many old buildings from the area were relocated on the 11-acre property. A couple of the buildings were made from lumber re-purposed from old barns and warehouses. We took the self-guided walking tour and found it to be scenic and interesting.
There’s a great deal of mining history in this area. Everything from talc to gold was mined here – including the biggest tungsten ore mine in the world.
These 20-mule team wagons were the heavy haulers of the day bringing borax from Death Valley mines to the railroad spur 165 miles away.
By the time we finished strolling through the museum, it was nearly 1pm and we were hungry for lunch. A place called Schat’s Bakkery was highly recommended and we went there. I can tell you, the recommendation was well-warranted. They have outstanding sandwiches made with bread they bake on site, delicious cookies and pastries of all kinds. If you are ever in Bishop, this is a must stop.
Sunday was Cinco de Mayo and our 13th wedding anniversary. We celebrated by going to dinner at Astorga’s Mexican Restaurant. The margaritas and food were good and they had an excellent eight-piece mariachi band.
In the afternoon, before we went to dinner, I should mention the visit I had from the Bishop Police Department. A police officer stopped by while I was outside reading a book in the shade. He wanted to let us know that overnight parking wasn’t allowed in the city. I told him I saw the signs, but got permission from the customer service in Vons. I told him we would leave if necessary. He was a nice guy and said it was a gray area really as the parking lot is private property. He also said his shift was over at 6pm, so he wouldn’t know if we were here overnight. I took that as tacit approval and we stayed.
Today we’ll continue northward on US395 and see what we find at Mammoth Lakes or June Lake or maybe Lee Vining. The daily highs here in Bishop have been in the 80s with very low humidity. As we go north, we’ll gain elevation and can expect cooler temperatures. Rain showers near the mountains are always a possibility.
